Sneak-Peak! Mora Hits the Shelf on January 24th!

I have never met a shade of gray that I didn’t like. Gray just makes me happy. Gray has the ability to be warm and inviting, or it can make a space seem bright and cheerful. And while that’s true of almost every color, really, I just like gray the best!

The new European Colours by Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint are calming, inviting, and overall, quite stunning. The European Collection introduces two new grays to the Miss Mustard Seed family! {there is even a new shade of white :)}

Given that grays are my favorite, the first color I’ve been dying to try is the lovely, MORA! And can I say, I want more-ah! Bu-dum-bump… Ok, bad joke… moving on…

So today, at a local salvage yard, I came across this little English Oak cabinet. I fell in love right away…

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I am not a fan of English Oak – in fact, I really {kind of} can’t stand it. Sorry English Oak fans, but it just bugs me.  This piece, however, had me at hello – and I immediately thought, “MORA!” Right away I imagined her looking lovely in my studio… Now I just had to convince my husband 🙂

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Ok, so luckily I convinced him. It wasn’t too hard. I gave the man a dolly and said, “let’s go babe, load ‘er up!” So off we went.

Now it was time to give her some much needed attention.

So here is what I did…

The prep was relatively easy. I simply wiped it down with some TSP cleaner and then sanded with 80 grit sandpaper. Nothing dramatic.

I always start with 80 grit – if not rougher. I find the 80 grit really scuffs the wood. And to this day, I’ve never had the paint chip {knock on wood}.

The rougher grit also makes it easier to fine/finish sand, given that the paint has been applied to a slightly rough surface…

I also HATE {with a passion so bad that I twitch} paint strokes. And what I have found is that by roughing it up really good, when I do my fine sanding, it really levels off nicely – like buttah!

Time to mix up paint! … Nothing to be intimidated by – I promise! Just imagine getting a glass of water – now add some paint to it! It really is that simple.


Screen Shot 2015-01-25 at 2.08.16 AMSo people ask me all the time, “Do I really need that mixer?” My answer is always, “YES!” Personally, I really love the frother.

I always start my mix in a mason jar. Shake it up real good, then stir with a paint stir stick.  I typically let my paint sit about twenty to forty minutes – still mixing or shaking every few minutes – before I finish it off with my frother.

Mixing milk paint reminds of helping my mom make gravy. Gotta get the lumps out, and the best way is to just let it do what it does.

Don’t rush the paint.

So here is what I used & what you might need:

  • Two and a half hours. {awesome}
  • Body oil, or Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint hemp oil, {we shall get to this in a minute}
  • 80 grit sandpaper for initial sanding
  • Mixing bowl
  • Auto mixer/milk frother and/or mixing stick {or both}
  • Paintbrush | you can use any kind you like, they all work well.
  • MORA | 1/3 bag | Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint European Collection
  • Fine Acrylic Brush
  • Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint Antique Wax
  • Wax Brush {A definite MUST!}
  • 220 sandpaper for fine sanding | finishing
  • 320 sandpaper | final sanding {makes the wood feel like buttah!
  • Camera – for those before and after shots!
  • Gilders Paste {for knobs and handles}

My #1 Tip:

Before you begin, apply oil, or lotion, to your hands. Milk paint contains all natural ingredients {YAE} and one of them is clay. So between the sanding and the clay, your skin will seriously dry out… If your hands are prone to being dry in the winter – you will thank me for this tip.

Fine Acrylic Artist Brush:

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I hate painters tape. I usually end up with it stuck to everything other than the intended surface. So I avoid it. What I have found that I love, however, is my artists brushes. They are perfect for getting around small spots. I also like them for leveling out any bubbles that may appear in my paint.

Gilders Paste:

I took the original handles and added a blue gilders paste to give the look of patina.

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Maybe not my first choice, but I got this baby on the fly – so until I find the perfect handles – this will do!

And if you opt to use gilder’s paste, make sure you get real paste. Anything other just doesn’t do the job. There are some that call themselves “paste” and are really a liquid. Those are tricky to use and have an extremely long dry time.

After Picture:

I like the predictability of wood and I like seeing the grain which is an effect that can only be achieved with milk paint. I just lightly distressed it, nothing major, and I left the top wood – just added some hemp oil to it and it drank it right up!

Not sure why, but I really love the wood top. And whenever possible, I will leave the top of a piece wood. So you will see this a lot from me. 🙂

This piece took me all of two and a half hours. Seriously. From start {sanding} to Finish {moving it to my studio}. My daughter and her friend came downstairs, while I was painting in the kitchen, and couldn’t believe I had already completed it.

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I will post a better picture when I am actually in my studio during the daylight! {which is hardly ever}

Be sure to stop the shop on the 24th and grab some of the new colors!

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Please note this is a wood piece. Any, and all, information provided herein is based solely on this piece, and may not apply to your specific wares. Please note the information contained in this post serves as information only and in no way is a guarantee of your results.